Dollhouse Miniature Moving Boxes

 

Watch the video here.

 

Since I can't start on the wiring of the dollhouse until all of the items I ordered are here I thought it would be fun to make some moving boxes. I have to admit that I have been kind of obsessed by making these boxes for the last few weeks. I got the idea because I want to stage some scenes to photograph as we get the house more finished.

I started this project by looking online and taking note of the sizes of moving boxes in real life. Since I moved last year I am fairly well versed in moving boxes. Since I got mine at the U-Haul store when I picked up my moving truck that was where I went to get the sizes for the project. I decided to go with 4 sizes – small, medium, large and extra large. I will go into more details on these sizes a little later in this blog post.

I made these out of Kraft color card-stock which is really easy to find at most stores that have card making or scrap-booking papers. Be sure to get card-stock weight not just paper though.

First I wanted to talk about how I went about drawing up the patterns that I am sharing with you so that you can make any size box you want to.

So the first step is to determine how big of a box you want to make. I will use the extra large size that I made on the video as our example here. So I wanted my finished box to be 2” by 1 ½” by 2” tall this was to represent the real box that measured- 24” by 18” by 24” tall.

Now that I know the size of the box I take the smallest of the 2 first numbers- 2” by 1 ½” so the 1 ½ and I divide that in half (¾”) this is how wide I want to cut the flaps for my box. So I start by drawing a line ¾” down from the top of the page to allow for the top flaps on my box.

Next we allow for the height of our box, in this case 2” so that is how far away we draw our next line. Now we add a line for the bottom flaps (¾”) . This line is also the cutting line for the first box, after this we just repeat the same lines the same distances apart. On a standard piece of paper you will get 3 boxes with a tiny bit of paper left over at the bottom.

Now we are going to add the lines that will allow us to fold the sides of the box. Since our box is going to be 2” by 1 ½” our first line is 2” from the edge of the paper. The next line is 1 ½” away from it and then we repeat this for the other two sides of the box. Just be sure that you have them in the same order each time. At the end of this I add another line ¼” away for the gluing flap. If I don't actually draw the line I have in the past forgotten to add it when I cut the paper out.

After we draw out the line we need to score on the lines that will be fold lines. I just used a table knife on top of a piece of cardboard. This works just fine. You can just go ahead and score all the lines or just do the fold lines.

Now cut out the boxes and fold on the scored lines. Glue the tab area to inside of the other end of the piece and clamp.

When gluing the bottom of the box I find it works best to add some kind of weight to keep the bottom flat.

Now you have a set of moving boxes for your dollhouse and just as importantly I hope you can now draft the pattern to draw any size box you need.

Lets look at all four sizes of boxes I showed in the video and talk about the lines and the sizes. On these I color coded the lines in hope you will be able to visualize what each line is a bit better. The black lines are score/fold lines, the blue ones are lines we scored but also need to cut before assembling the box. And finally the red lines are cut lines. I hope this makes sense to you all.

So the small box will finish out at 1 ¼” by 1” by 1” tall. The flaps are ½”.

The medium box will finish out at 1 ½” by 1 ½” by 1 ½” tall. The flaps on this one are ¾'.

The large box will finish out at 1 ½” by 1 ½” by 2” tall. The flaps on this one are ¾'.

The extra large box will finish at 2” by 1 ½” by 2” tall. The flaps are ¾”.

I really hope these directions make sense, I know it seems confusing but I am really hoping between the video, the directions here and the diagrams I drew you understand and go on to make lots of boxes for the dollhouse.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Wood Glue Review

 

Watch the video here.

 

 

Since I have been using this wood glue on the dollhouse build here on the channel I thought I would take a couple of moments to share my thoughts on the glue. I had purchased the bottle of glue a while back to do a non-mini project. When the time came to work on the dollhouse I figured I might as well use what I had. The other project was fairly small and I hadn't really formed any kind of opinion on the glue.

With the dollhouse build I have used about two thirds of the bottle of glue and I have some opinions on the glue.

So the glue we are talking about is the Gorilla Brand Wood glue. The bottle I have is the 8 oz size, it is the size I usually see, I don't know if there are other sizes available or not. The price I see most often seems to be right around $6. And most places that have wood glue seem to have it when I have been looking.

As far as the glue goes I really like it. It goes on easily and smoothly. It dries just fine and in a timely manner. And so far it seems to hold just fine.

The biggest complaint I have it the nozzle thing (or whatever the correct term is)

The part of the lid that goes up and down glues itself onto the bottle very easily. When I mentioned that on a video a while back I got several messages from viewers that told me it had done the same thing for them. The top can be raised with a pair of pliers but that is a slight hassle. I did try putting some Petroleum Jelly on the bottle hoping to keep able to open (just like I do with most containers of paint) and that was a fail. Now the top won't stay on at all.

I do find the easiest way to use the glue is to pour out some onto a pallet and used a wood skewer to apply it. I might see if I can find a different bottle to transfer the glue to that has a better designed top.

Also the little loop shaped part of the lid that is under the pull up part tends to misshape about the first time you have to use pliers to lift that stuck lid.

I know for a fact I will be buying another bottle of this glue in the future since overall I lake it much better than any other wood glue I have tried in the past. I just wish they would fix the issues with the top of the bottle.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Safety First Everyone

 

I just want to take a little bit of your time to say something that has been on my mind the last few days. 

I watch a lot of YouTube videos, most of them are various types of crafting. And in that watching of videos I am seeing an alarming trend, at least I find it alarming. That trend is YouTube crafters demonstrating how to do things in dangerous ways.

This ranges from the simple act of using a normal, often cheap pair of scissors that are designed to cut paper and using them to cut wood. This is so dangerous but I see it just about every day on one channel or another. I would hope they aren't thinking but I am afraid that they are just ignoring the obvious. And many of them when asked about this practice will respond with something about the “proper tools” being too expensive. I am fairly certain that the one time expense of those tools is a lot lower than a trip to the emergency room. Not to mention the pain that can come from an injury received this way.

Another one I see a lot is using chemicals (paints, glues, etc) in a closed space. A lot of these items need to be used in a well ventilated area, some of them state right on the label that they should only be used outside. But I see them being used at the craft table, without any warnings to do otherwise. At least explain you are only doing this for the camera and normally you would do it outside.

The finial straw for me was a video I watched recently where a well known artist was using some 2 part resin. For the most part this is a wonderful and safe product as long as safety rules are followed. The big rule this artist skipped was gloves. You always need to wear gloves when working with resin and they were not. And they are well known enough that a lot of viewers are going to take this a the right way to use the product. 

Now I don't care what you do in your craft room on your own. There are no craft police that are going to come knocking at your door and call you out for these infractions. The problem as I see it is when you start doing tutorials on YouTube (or other formats) and still use these unsafe practices. With what has been happening in our world the last year or so I know a lot of folks that have never really done any crafting since grade school are starting to want to craft. It is a wonderful way to relax and fill some time and you get the bonus of having an item you can point to and say “I made that” A lot of those novice crafters are turning to YouTube channels to learn to do things. They are not going to know that what they are seeing is the right way to do it or a very dangerous short cut.

I take this fact very seriously. In fact there have been videos I have filmed and decided not to post because I felt I did something that was unsafe without explaining that fact. I have also pulled a few of my videos after they went up for the same reason.

So I guess other than venting about this I want to just say be careful and if something seems like it might not be safe listen to that instinct.

Building the Beachside Bungalow part 15

 

Watch the video here.

 

 

The first thing to do this week is get any interior walls into the dollhouse. The kit comes with 3, I am only going to use 1. In my opinion this floor plan is just too small to divide into that many rooms. The bottom floor will be one open room containing a family room and open kitchen. Then upstairs there will be a bedroom and a bathroom.

My wall for upstairs was a bit too big to fit in, I'm not sure why, it could be a number of things. All it took was some sanding on the edges to get the fit just right. I allowed 6” for the bathroom at the end away from the stairs. The rest will be the bedroom. The stairs will come directly into the bedroom.

I do have some plans for under the stairs but that will come later. Since stairs are always one of the last things to be installed.

I like to run a line of tape-wire 1” above the floor all the way around the building in all rooms. To aid in drawing the placement line for this tape-wire line I made myself a little tool. It is a simple thing to make and will make drawing that line really easy. I have made similar tools in the past and I have also used a short piece of 1” wide wood for this too. This time I am going to put the tool I made directly into my box of wiring supplies so I don't have to make one next time I want to wire a dollhouse or roombox.

The other two placement lines I drew today were connecting the first floor tape-wire line to the one on the second floor and one next to the door for the front porch light.

The only ceiling light I am planning to install in the house will be in the kitchen area. I am really hoping I can place it underneath the bathroom. Since I am planning to cover the wood floor in the bathroom with something more fitting to a bathroom I will be able to hide the wire for that light under that floor.

The rest of the house will probably have a combination of table and floor lamps with a couple of wall mounted lights in the bathroom.

I was really hoping to start the wiring process this week but I ran into a bit of a glitch in that plan.

You see I knew I had everything I needed to wire the house. I had checked my wiring supplies box and in there I had a transformer, a lead-in wire, a junction splice, tape-wire, brads, grommets, and a test probe. I decided to test those and it is a really good thing I did. Something in that group isn't working. I know the tape-wire is fine but, either the transformer, lead-in wire, junction splice or test probe is not working. I really am not sure which of those it is. So I placed orders to get replacements along with a couple of other things I needed to get anyway. I had to place two orders since I couldn't get everything I needed in either of the places I was ordering from. I am hopeful that both orders will arrive in time to film for next week.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Dollar Tree Furniture Flip-Table

 

Watch the video here.

 

 

This week I am tackling another piece of the Dollar Tree furniture I recently purchased. This time the table is our subject. I am not sure how the folks at Dollar Tree planned on this piece being used. If they intended it to be an actual table for the dolls to sit at they missed their mark by a lot.

I did some measurements of the table and found it is 1 ½” tall, 4 ¼” long, and 2 ¾” wide. At this height it is the perfect size to be a coffee table in the dollhouse so that is the direction I took it. If you wanted to use it for a dining table it would only be a matter of changing out the legs, I might do that in a future video if anyone wants to see it.

I am in the beginning stages of really figuring out the interior of the Beachside Bungalow and the style I am going to try to use in it. So that is how this table was finished. I do hope to use it in the project when the time comes.

The name I most often see associated with this style is “Coastal Farmhouse” so I did some googling for inspiration. A lot of the furniture pieces, especially the tables had distressed finishes with a cream or white being the main color and various shades of blue as the accent color that has been revealed. Personally I love this look so I was excited to get started.

The first step of any project is the prep work and this table is no different. First off I needed to straighten out one of the legs, it was very crooked. Fortunately for us they use very cheap glue on this stuff so a couple of minutes with my heat gun and the leg popped off easily. Then after cleaning off the remaining glue it was a simple matter to glue it in place correctly.

Next up a bit of sanding to get rid of some of the roughness on the piece. This table was one of the worst I've seen as far as the wood being rough but the between the sanding sponge, some sandpaper and an emery board it was better in no time. 

 

 

Now it was time for a nice thorough coat of the base paint, Admiral Blue by Apple Barrel. I do love this color and it looks so pretty peaking through on the edges of the finished table. 

 

 

 

 

After the base coat dried I did 2 coats of the cream paint(Vanilla Cream by Anita's) I wanted this layer of paint to look good in the areas I didn't distress.

I let this dry thoroughly then used the same sanding sponge on the edges to reveal the blue paint in areas that would show some wear. I also did a light sanding of the top so it just barely shows there too. 

After a good wipe with a paper towel and a coat of satin Mod Podge the table is finished and ready to use.

I do love this little table.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Building the Beachside Bungalow part 14

 

Watch the video here.

This week we are finishing up the roof on the dollhouse build. I have never been so happy to have a job finished as I am with this one. The roof on a dollhouse always seems to take forever, especially one that is covered in the individual wood shingles. I have done several of these over the years and I hope I gave you some hints to help yours go as smoothly as possible. They really aren't difficult they just take so much time.

Every time I do a wood shingle roof I am reminded of why I don't like them. Usually I make a faux asphalt shingle roof from coarse grade sandpaper for my dollhouses. I really prefer the look on most structures but I have done that on the channel a few times. That was why I decided to go with the shingles provided in the kit for this series.

The first thing I cover in the video is trimming the edges of the shingles at the valley areas of the roof to neaten them up. It was very difficult to get that filmed because of the shape of the house so hopefully you understood what I was doing. It is pretty simple.

The other portion of the video is applying the ridge cap on the roof. There are several ways to do this. I chose to do a variation on what I normally do. I just used shingles horizontally and overlapping at the top of the roof. Normally I cut the shingles lengthwise and use half a width of shingle but when I tried that off-camera it just didn't look right. I think the length of the shingles coupled with the angle of the roof pitch made it look way too small. When I tried using whole shingles in place of half ones I liked the look much better.

The last item on my to-do list this week was to finish off the flashing both under the dormer and at the base of the chimney. I only show the dormer area on camera but they are done the same way. I simply added a strip of paper cut at ⅛” wide to the base of the shingles where they meet the wall. Combined with the strip we added a couple of weeks ago this makes it look a bit more finished.

The only thing left to do on the roof is to add the edge trim. I decided to not do that this week for two main reasons. Number one, frankly I am tried of working on the roof. And second, I am not totally sure I am going to use the wood pieces provided in the kit for this step. So I feel it is better to wait a while and do that later on.

Next week we will be moving inside to get prepared to stare putting in the tape wire system for the lights.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Ceramic Tile Basics

 

Watch the video here.

 

 

This week for the Tuesday Tidbit video I thought I would talk a little bit about ceramic tiles. I know I have a couple of videos on the channel on the subject but I just got a new one to use so it seemed like a good time to talk about them again.

So you might be wondering why you need ceramic tiles in the craft room. I love them because they are a wonderful, durable work surface that is also very portable. As an added bonus they clean up really easily too.

Before I moved last year I had collected many tiles of different sizes, textures and colors. When I moved I got rid of all of those mainly because I didn't want to deal with moving them. I figured that they would most likely get broken long before I got here. Besides they are really cheap and most of the ones I had were stained and/or chipped so they were in need of replacing.

My favorite size of tile to work on is a 12” by 12”, this size gives me a good sized work surface but is not too heavy or hard to handle. It is also an easy size to store since they will slip in many places.

As for surface most crafting I like a very smooth surface. Something without much in the way of texture. The new one I got is kind of glossy but not overly so.

Color really doesn't matter at all for our purposes. I do usually stick to light neutrals but that is the last factor I look at.

As for cost look for the cheap tiles, the one I got was less than a dollar.

The tiles are fantastic for polymer clay work, and if you want to you can bake the clay right on the tile.

They are also wonderful for painting small items on, just put some masking tape down like I show in the video and you will corral lots of small pieces on your tile to work on. Then you can put the tile to the side while your project dries.

As for cleaning I almost always start with one of those razor blade scrapers. Just be careful with using the scraper. I always go over the surface with a quick wipe of a baby wipe and the tile is ready to go again.

I have in the past actually run my tiles through the dishwasher when they get really dirty. It is probably not recommended to do so but it has worked for me several times. The only downside is the back of the tile does hold moisture and you really can't use it again until it is totally dry or you risk ruining your work table.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Building the Beachside Bungalow part 13

 

Watch the video here.

 

 

This week we are continuing the work on the roof of the dollhouse. I was really hoping that this would be the last video on the roof but we will be continuing on with a few more roof steps next week.

I was on the phone with my daughter a couple of days ago and she asked me what I was doing that day. When I told her I was working on the dollhouse roof she replied with the observation that a dollhouse roof takes longer than a roof on a real house. I think she might be right. LOL At least on a real house you don't have to stain all the shingles individually and usually there is a team of guys to help put it on the house... Oh, well I am almost done at this point just a few finishing touches.

So we placed the shingles on the main part of the roof as well as the dormer this week. It wasn't until I was completely finished that I noticed that the roof on each side of the dormer doesn't match!! Not sure what I did to mess that up but I will figure out a way to disguise it later. I am not about to tear all that roof off and fix it.

We did need to do some cutting of shingles around the dormer and its roof. I showed a few options for you to try on your builds. There are probably more ways to do this but these are what came to me as I was working on it. Just be sure no matter how you do this step that you dry fit the shingles before you glue them to the structure.

As far as minor mistakes or areas that we don't like when we get to the decorating phase of the project I have a couple of fun ideas to show you that will conceal them and be fun too.

While planning this roof portion of the project I got to thinking about some houses my mom and I used to drive by when I was a little girl. It was a short row of those fancy Victorian homes in the style of the painted ladies in San Francisco, you know the ones I mean the line of skinny row houses. I was absolutely in love with these houses and looked at them every time we drove by. Anyway these were in a not so nice part of town and on our way to shop at one of the big stores my mom liked to visit. When I was about 4 we had a really bad windstorm that did lots of damage around the area. Lots of roofs received really bad damage and these cute little houses were among the victims of the storm. The next time we drove by them after the storm the roofs had been patched with shingles that didn't match the color of the rest of the roof. I am sure the old roofs were very faded and this is why. In my little 4 year old brain I was sure they had did this to decorate the roofs. I was so excited about how pretty they looked. 

 

So I decided to honor that memory and make a patched area on the dormer roof. After all this house in my mind lives on the Oregon coast , on a rise over looking the ocean. The Oregon coast gets a lot of rain and a lot of wind so it would be pretty natural to need to fix the roof. To make the shingles for this “patch” I simply took 7 shingles and gave them a coat of black craft paint. Now I had some “new” shingles that our homeowner could add to the part of the roof that was damaged. I love the way this turns out and it makes me smile and remember how much I loved those houses.

We are so close to the end of the roof part of the house. We will finish up all but the roof edge trim next week. After that we will move inside to work on the wiring.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Building the Beachside Bungalow part 12

 

Watch the video here.

This week we start by installing the rafter on the dormer. I did the rafters on the main roof the same way. This area is kind of hard to get decent video of.

The next thing I did was to install some screw eyes onto the porch area so that I will be able to hang things like plants, bird feeders and/or windsocks. I love this little touch because it makes hanging and changing these items so easy. When time to decorate the porch I will show you how easy they make this. My dad did something very much like this on our real house when I was growing so in a way this is my way of adding a bit of him to my dollhouses. The screw eyes I got came from the Ace hardware store and they are 7/16” in size and they were with the regular screw eyes in the store. I can't remember the exact price but it was less than $2.50. I did these now because it is so much easier to do this while the house is upside down.

Next I had to make a decision about what to do next we could either stay on the outside and deal with the shingles or we could move inside and start wiring. While some things have to be done in a certain order some things can be switched around in order. So you may be wondering why I chose the direction I did. It was simply a matter of as much as I dreaded staining all those shingles I just really didn't want to deal with the tape-wire yet. So this was a case of the lesser of 2 evils in a way. We have to do both of them eventually and I know I can do them both easily because I have done both in all my previous builds.

So in order to put on the shingles the chimney has to be placed first. This is fairly easy to do just measure and glue. I did end up having to use some masking tape because gravity was making it slide slowly down the roof.

Then went on to the shingles. Since I wanted my roof to be more in line with the color of the house. With the grey tones of the house I was picturing a black or charcoal grey roof. The closest I could get was the Minwax Penetrating stain in Ebony. It was the only stain that was anywhere close to the color I wanted to use that I could find around here. It came out pretty good, I had some pictures that a friend sent me of houses on the Oregon coast and the color that the shingles came out is close to the weathered color on several of those houses. I do have something special planned for a small part of roof which you will see when I get to that point.

I did send right around 5 hours staining all those shingles, this is probably my least favorite part of the entire process of building any dollhouse. This is why I don't normally use wood shingles on a lot of my builds recently. Since it had been a couple of years since I had done them I decided to go ahead with the ones in the kit.

I did discover that the cheap tablecloth from the Dollar Tree really is working to protect my table. I tipped over the small cup of stain on my table. I was sure that I was going to be re-finishing my table after that. I did blot the stain as well as I could and a lot of it was soaked up by the layer of Kraft paper. When I took the tablecloth off to change it out and check the damage there was no indication that I had spilt at all. So yes the extra trouble of layering the plastic tablecloth and Kraft paper is worth it.

Before I added the shingles I added some “flashing” to some of the places it would be on a real house. It is a small thing, most people don't bother with it but I like the look so I almost always do add it. This time I just used some black card-stock. In the past I have used card-stock, foil and many other things. I tried several things I had on hand and decided with the colors of this house I liked the plain black the best. On the vertical areas where one free edge of the “flashing” will show I make that side ⅛” and the areas that will be under the shingles I cut at ¼” since this won't show.

After the “flashing” was in place it is time to start gluing that mountain of shingles onto the roof. This is where we will be using those lines we drew on the roof panels several weeks ago.

Now here is where I am going against the instructions in the book that came with the kit. The books tells me not to use Tacky glue. I have always used tacky glue and never had any problems. Granted if you coat the entire back of the shingle it will no doubt warp. You don't need any where near that much glue. With the exception of the first row of shingles I only run a bead of glue where the top edge of the shingle will be lining up. For the first row you will need to zig-zag that bead of glue to give a better hold to the first row.

The book does however, tell us to use hot glue. Never, I repeat never use hot glue to put on shingles. I have a story to illustrate at least one reason not to do this. Many years ago and friend and I were building our very first dollhouses at the same time. We were keeping in touch via e-mail, phone calls and sharing pictures on the old site Webshots (I told you this was a long time ago)

Anyway, she was a couple of steps ahead of me. She got to the step of putting the shingles on her house. We had talked about how to do this and since the directions told us to use a glue gun we both thought okay, we could try it. Now as a side note if you have been following me for any length of time you know I hate hot glue and only use it when nothing else will do. So my friend spent a day or two of carefully placing all those shingles and fighting with her hot glue gun, dealing with all those wispy bits you get with hot glue, burning several fingers and having to make at least one run to the store for more glue sticks. She proudly emailed me late in the day and told me to check out the pictures she had just posted in her online album, the roof was done! Now this was a Friday and she had spent all week working on her dollhouse so she didn't check on it all weekend. It was summer and a hot summer at that and her house was being built on a work table she had set up in her screened porch.

Monday morning she went out to the screened porch to admire her work and plan what she would tackle that day. Imagine her surprise when the thing she saw first was an almost bare roof area on her house. All those shingles had slipped down off the roof, some were on the floor, some on the table and a lot of them were now stuck at odd angles all over the sides of her house.

One of the things about hot glue is it melts, it melts easily and the sun coming in on the house melted it. I saw the pictures she posted that day and it was sad to say the least. She was able to salvage it, she had to use a hairdryer to remove some the shingles from the walls of her house and from the table. She had order all new shingles and you can rest assured she used Tacky glue to put the new batch on with.

I wish I had copies of this pictures to show you but they are long gone as is my friend but I think about her and that roof every time I roof a dollhouse.

Now if you do have any problems with the shingles warping with Tacky glue just lay a brick on them until the glue dries that will keep them flat. Just don't use hot glue.

This part of the video that I filmed got messed up and I wasn't able to use it. Unfortunately I didn't realize this until I was editing the video late on Saturday evening. At this point not only was my area way to dark to re-film the part I had also already started filming next week's video. I decided to wait until Sunday morning to figure out what to do. The best option I could come up with was to show the steps on the side of the dormer. So I quickly filmed this part Sunday morning. I do have to emphasize let the glue on the first row dry before you try adding the second row. As you can see in the footage the first row slips around a lot and makes it very hard to get the second row straight.

When you start your first row of shingles start with a whole shingle at starting edge. Let this row dry completely before you go to the next row, you want this row to not be able to slide around on you as you add more rows. After this dries start the 2^nd row with a half shingle, and continue to alternate the starting of every row like this so that the seams between the shingles will alternate up the roof.

After the first row you can start doing 3 or so rows at a time before you need to let them dry.

I decided to stop this week's video before doing the fitting of the shingles around the dormer. I just need to get this video edited and uploaded so you can watch it on time.

Next week we will start off with shingling around the dormer and then the remainder of the shingles on the house. 

 

 

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.